The secret of the Moroccan diet

In spite of these variations, there are some common components that can be identified like monounsaturated/saturated fat ratio, high consumption of vegetables, fruits, legumes, and grains; moderate consumption of milk and dairy products, low consumption of meat and meat products and for some countries, moderate levels of ethanol consumption, mainly in the form of wine.

Among the Mediterranean countries, France, Greece and Spain have the highest fat intakes, whereas the lowest intakes are found in northwest African countries (Maghreb) like Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. In the Maghreb there is a higher consumption of cereal, less consumption of meat, milk, less vegetables, less oils and less fish compared the Mediterranean northern shore.

In Morocco for instance, the most striking feature of the diet is the large consumption of cereals, which provide more than 50% of the dietary energy and protein intake. Cereal derives its name from the mythological Roman Goddess of grains and harvest, Ceres. Cereal grains are the source of many food items, but definitely bread accounts for the majority of cereal consumption in Morocco. Cereals are the richest fiber sources. It has been suggested that diets high in fiber are associated with reduced risk for coronary heart disease. Furthermore, some evidence from epidemiological studies suggest that diets high in fiber might reduce the risk of colon cancer, hemorrhoids and constipation. It is essential for the health benefits sake to distinguish between the bread made from whole grains which contains fiber, vitamins and minerals, from the highly refined cereal grain products that have lost a significant amount of “good stuff” during the milling process.

Regarding fish and seafood, Moroccans consume the highest per capita quantities in the Maghreb. The fish consumption in Morocco has increased almost five times since the sixties, although these amounts are still much lower as compared to fish consumption in the European Mediterranean countries. It is surprising, that fish has a very low contribution to energy intake in Morocco, which has one of the largest (and abounding in fish) coast in the world. Indeed, fish and shellfish are excellent sources of easily digestible protein of high nutritional value. It contains essential minerals, vitamins and fat. It contains high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids, especially omega-3 fatty acids, which tend to lower blood cholesterol.

The consumption of vegetables and fruits in Morocco increased considerably and passed from 74kg/year/person in the sixties to nearly 185kg in the late nineties, but is still much less than in Tunisia (267kg) for example or Greece (440kg!!!). Nevertheless, the consumption of citrus fruits and pulses in Morocco are the highest among the Maghreb countries. The vegetables consumed are mainly tomatoes. And potatoes represent almost the only source of starchy roots.

I want to finish this section with the “king” of the “Mediterranean diet”, olive oil. Although large olive groves exist in Morocco, quiet unexpectedly, olive oil consumption is very low. More specifically, olive oil per capita consumption barely reaches 2 (kg/person/year), whereas in Greece it is about 19kg! However, olive oil consumption in Morocco is still higher than that in the US (0.4kg) or in UK (0.3kg). On the other hand, the vegetable oil (sunflower, corn, soybean) contribution to total fat intake has increased considerably during the last four decades. The vegetable oils are predominantly polyunsaturated and definitely do not present the same health benefits as olive oil, which is rich in monounsaturated fats.

Olive oil consumption reduces the risk of heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol (bad cholesterol) which contributes to the buildup of fatty deposits in the arteries. In turn, it leaves HDL (good cholesterol) which works to actually remove any buildup in the arteries that has occurred. In addition, it is rich in antioxidants and contains “squalene”, a substance which has anti-inflammatory properties. It also slows down acid overproduction in the digestive system thereby diminishing the potential for ulcers and other gastrointestinal problems. Olive oil has a remarkable stability and can be stored for long periods exceeding 18 months. When compared to other vegetable oils such as sunflower, corn and soybean oil, olive oil has a significantly lower rate of alteration and shows remarkable resistance during domestic deep-frying. Statistical studies clearly show that olive oil consumption has increased in recent years in many parts of the world. The cultivation of olive trees has spread to Australia, Brazil, California and Japan. The list of the health benefits of olive oil is long and may contribute to the extension of olive oil culinary applications, however two drawbacks may occur. One of them is the high cost of virgin olive oil and the other is its “strong” fruity flavor, which is not accepted by all consumers.

It is worth mentioning the existence of another oil called argan oil which is made form fruits harvested from the argan tree which endemic to Morocco’s southern regions. Recent studies have shown that the consumption of argan oil with its unique profile may enhance the cancer prevention effects of the Moroccan diet. One of the famous recipes with argan oil is “Amlou”, which is prepared by mixing honey, ground almonds (or peanuts) and argan oil.

The last but not the least, I want to mention the use of condiments, spices and herbs in the Moroccan diet that we put under the general term of seasoning. Indeed, seasoning is frequently termed the soul of cooking. The greater the skill in the art of seasoning, the better the cook. While seasonings do not add caloric value to the diet, they often make a dish that has been unacceptable a desirable food. Therefore, the main purpose of seasoning is to make the product more palatable. Although spices are used primarily to enhance the taste of otherwise bland foods, their beneficial effects stretch far beyond our tongues.

Using spices regularly represents an abundant source of antioxidants and could boost the immune system, decrease the risk of cardiovascular disease and high blood pressure, and fight cancer. They contain a variety of powerful phytonutrients and phytochemicals, that’s why sometimes, we should use them with parsimony.

Beside the common condiments (salt, pepper, and paprika), the most common spices and herbs used to add flavor in the Moroccan cuisine are ginger, cumin, saffron, turmeric, chili powder, parsley, coriander (or cilantro), celery, cinnamon and to a lesser extend oregano and thyme. For fresh flavoring, onions, garlic and shallots are the most commonly used plants. How to use all these ingredients with the adequate combination and subtlety is a matter for the gastronomy art which should be transmitted to the future generations. Indeed, a lot of experts in France and around the Mediterranean Sea worry about what they call “une perte du savoir-faire culinaire” meaning the lost of the culinary art among the population.

Any tourist who has visited Morocco knows that when talking about Moroccan food, one cannot neglect to mention the famous Moroccan tea. It is indeed the national drink of Morocco. Just as wine consumption can partially explain the “French paradox” (i.e. the coexistence of high-fat diet and a low incidence of artery disease), tea consumption could explain the “Moroccan paradox”…if there’s any. Indeed, the unique cardioprotective propreties of red wine reside in the action of flavonoids, which are absent in white wine (with the exception of champagne) and sparse in beer (with exception of dark beers). Tea, especially Chinese green tea (often used in Moroccan tea) is also rich in flavonoids and thus cardioprotective. Tea is a good agent for relieving fatigue and aids clearness of thought and digestion alike.

In conclusion, in Morocco there is a higher consumption of cereal, and a lesser consumption of meat, milk, vegetables, oils, and fish. The cancer death rate continues to remain low in Morocco compared to US, UK and even to other Mediterranean countries like Greece, Italy and Spain, suggesting that the Moroccan diet may be protective against cancer. However, the intake of monounsaturated fatty acids is not particularly high due to the low consumption of olive oil. Additionally, most of the fatty acids consumed are polyunsaturated since their source is mainly sunflower and soybean oils. Therefore, some beneficial changes regarding the fat composition of the Moroccan diet could be achieved by the substitution of other vegetable oils with olive oil and increasing fish consumption. Eating more vegetables and fruit is also very welcome.

It is imperative to remember that any good diet doesn’t mean much without considering other factors like the level of everyday stress, smoking vs. non smoking, physical activity etc. And finally we should not forget this old French proverb which reminds us that food is not only a matter of quality or taste but also of quantity, indeed : “On creuse nos tombes avec nos dents” (We dig our graves with our teeth!).